// Wednesday discoveries

What a better day to share your discoveries than the middle of the week, right? It seems like nothing interesting ever happens in the midst of one's week (well, at least mine).

After snatching a copy of N WIND magazine at 5/5/Junior Conference I finally had the time to read it on my morning commute to uni. And oh my, am I happy I had managed to fit it into my suitcase back to London for I came across an amaaaaazing Estonian designer Marit Ilison!
I found myself completely compelled by her new collection, called "Longing for Sleep". What a beautiful and nostalgic name, isn't it?

"The conceptual collection is about the haunting wish to sleep during dark wintery times, kaamos. "Kaamos" is an untranslatable word only known in Estonian and Finnish languages, referring to the period in the Northern Hemisphere when the days are very short and it barely gets light outside. To materialize the feeling of a wish to stay in bed wrapped in a blanket all day long, Marit Ilson has created a collection using vintage Soviet wool blankets." (Aušra Prasauskaitė, 2016)

The thing that I absolutely admire is how she embraced Estonian history of Soviet occupation and managed to transform it into such beautiful objects. There's no point in denying the painful past, so why not turn it into something beautiful? As the designer said herself, "I often see traces of conflicts and nostalgia in my work and I find myself working with things I'm irritated by. I see it as a challenge to reform the irritation into something pleasant. To see a good potential in everything and mold the irritator into a form I can accept it in."

And it's not everything! Inside the coats lie beautiful embellishments. The reason for placing them here is based on the sense of guiltiness when all you want to do is say in a warm bed and daydream about all of the wonderful things that are going to happen to you but at the same time but feel obliged get up and start working. In Ilison's words, it's like a "the crying baby in Chekhov's novel or a grain of sand in your sheets, or a pea under the matress that doesn't allow you to fully fall into slumber." That's the reason behind it; on one side it refers to "our beautiful dreamlands" placed deeply inside every each of us, but on the other side, to the pricking voice, telling us to get up and get to work.

Sources:

http://pupulandia.fi/2016/03/02/koko-paiva-viltin-uumenissa/

http://www.vogue.it/en/talents/new-talents/2014/04/marit-ilison

N WIND Magazine 2016 April - May

// Springspiration

Spring is finally here with the sun shining brighter (and it's definitely warmer, may I say! I embraced that by eating two cheeky portions of ice-cream today #guiltyascharged) and I am back to London for my final term. Having said that, as much as I am excited to start working on my new project, I definitely need some inspiration to chase away the post holiday blues. So enjoy these sun, warmth and spring vibe filled pictures which will hopefully make your day a little bit brighter!

Source: tumblr

Liberty in Fashion

“I was determined not to follow existing fashion but to create new ones.”

‘Liberty has been a part of the British landscape since its founding by Arthur Lasenby 140 years ago. Originally a warehouse supplying fashionable goods from the Far East, Liberty soon established a style and approach that was distinctive in the milieu of British retailing. Liberty’s contribution to British fashion, both that produced by the company and its impact on the work of other designers, is celebrated in this exhibition.‘ (Fashion and Textile Museum, 2015)

Founded in 1875 by Arthur Lisenby, Liberty’s department store was known for selling merchandise (homeware and fashion items) from at that time considered ‘exotic‘ Far East. 

What is interesting, Arthur Lisenby himself borrowed £2,000 (todays it’s about £200,000) from his future father-in-law and managed to pay him off in 18 months, which is considered impressive even with businesses nowadays (talk about the power of a well picked merchandise, huh?)).

Taking inspiration from the East, especially kimono and its garment, Liberty created the basis for dressing gowns and wraps.

            If you’re a literature junkie like me, it’s interesting to note that in 1882 as the aesthetic movement took of, Oscar Wilde helped to popularize Liberty’s fabrics, as he took a full closet of them when he travelled to America. Apparently he said:  “Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper,” which can be hold true even now. (Telegraph, 2015)

Couldn't imagine your wardrobe without a smock dress? Well, you have Liberty to thank for, as it revived the art of smocking (process when the fabric is pleated and stiched to create flexibility and increased durability), which previously was found on clothing worn by agricultural labourers in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Helooo, bright colours! After Art Noveau Exhibition held in Paris, Liberty quickly realized that the pattern is back in fashion again leading to a re-drawing of selection of original Art Noveau patterns which Liberty took from its archives. Recoloured in vibrant shades, the designs were released under the name of 'Lotus' collection.

 Major 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' vibes!

One of my favorite pieces which reminds me of cartoons because of its black embroidery.

YSL dress on the left features Bernard Nevill's (who studied at CSM, University of the Arts!! *proud student squeak*) ethnic inspired 'Macedonia' print which is claimed to be his 'most successful print ever'.

From Nevill's 'Landscape' range which was inspired by 1930s travel posters.

'Bauhaus' (print on the skirt) is one of the most well known Liberty's prints.

Liberty's today.

Dreamy girls in Cacharel frocks.

Collaboration with Vivienne Westwood Red Label (2013)

And some fabolous Jimy Choos for the end (You're welcome).

References:

Telegraph, (2015) Timeline: 150 years of Liberty London 

(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/brands/liberty-140th-anniversary/liberty-140-year-history/)

Fashion and Textile Museum (2015) Liberty in Fashion (http://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/liberty-in-fashion/)