2016 m. sausio 23 d., šeštadienis

Liberty in Fashion

“I was determined not to follow existing fashion but to create new ones.”

‘Liberty has been a part of the British landscape since its founding by Arthur Lasenby 140 years ago. Originally a warehouse supplying fashionable goods from the Far East, Liberty soon established a style and approach that was distinctive in the milieu of British retailing. Liberty’s contribution to British fashion, both that produced by the company and its impact on the work of other designers, is celebrated in this exhibition.‘ (Fashion and Textile Museum, 2015)

Founded in 1875 by Arthur Lisenby, Liberty’s department store was known for selling merchandise (homeware and fashion items) from at that time considered ‘exotic‘ Far East. 

What is interesting, Arthur Lisenby himself borrowed £2,000 (todays it’s about £200,000) from his future father-in-law and managed to pay him off in 18 months, which is considered impressive even with businesses nowadays (talk about the power of a well picked merchandise, huh?)).

Taking inspiration from the East, especially kimono and its garment, Liberty created the basis for dressing gowns and wraps.

            If you’re a literature junkie like me, it’s interesting to note that in 1882 as the aesthetic movement took of, Oscar Wilde helped to popularize Liberty’s fabrics, as he took a full closet of them when he travelled to America. Apparently he said:  “Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper,” which can be hold true even now. (Telegraph, 2015)

Couldn't imagine your wardrobe without a smock dress? Well, you have Liberty to thank for, as it revived the art of smocking (process when the fabric is pleated and stiched to create flexibility and increased durability), which previously was found on clothing worn by agricultural labourers in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Helooo, bright colours! After Art Noveau Exhibition held in Paris, Liberty quickly realized that the pattern is back in fashion again leading to a re-drawing of selection of original Art Noveau patterns which Liberty took from its archives. Recoloured in vibrant shades, the designs were released under the name of 'Lotus' collection.

 Major 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' vibes!

One of my favorite pieces which reminds me of cartoons because of its black embroidery.

YSL dress on the left features Bernard Nevill's (who studied at CSM, University of the Arts!! *proud student squeak*) ethnic inspired 'Macedonia' print which is claimed to be his 'most successful print ever'.

From Nevill's 'Landscape' range which was inspired by 1930s travel posters.

'Bauhaus' (print on the skirt) is one of the most well known Liberty's prints.

Liberty's today.

Dreamy girls in Cacharel frocks.

Collaboration with Vivienne Westwood Red Label (2013)

And some fabolous Jimy Choos for the end (You're welcome).


Telegraph, (2015) Timeline: 150 years of Liberty London 

Fashion and Textile Museum (2015) Liberty in Fashion (http://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/liberty-in-fashion/)

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